Thursday, July 30, 2009

London—Day 11: July 29



Burhley House--home of Lady Catherine in the new Pride and Prejudice.



There are over 400 deer like these wandering the grounds of Burghley House.



More Burghley House



Charming little window shot of Burghley



This is my raisin scone from the Orangery at Burghley, complete with clotted cream and raspberry jam. Yum!



The London Inn in Stamford--isn't it adorable?




Street shot of Stamford



I don't know why, but I absolutely LOVE this picture! I just loved how the telephone booth is tucked into that corner by the clock.

Daily Details: July 29

Once again, we headed deep into the English countryside this morning to visit Burghley House, which is heralded as, “the largest and grandest house of the Elizabethan Age”. They weren’t kidding. You’d think I could stop using the expression “blown away” when I’ve seen so many grand palaces, estates, etc…already, but I can’t stop using it. Each has its own unique flavor, and this one was absolutely exquisite. In fact, in the Kiera Knightly Pride and Prejudice, Burghley House serves as the home of Lady Katherine. We were fortunate enough to be let into the house before it is open to the rest of the public, so we virtually had it all to ourselves for most of the time there. Before being let in, we wandered the grounds in front of the home where over 400 deer live. They love people and you can just go up to them and pet them. They were all so beautiful!

Inside the home, we were given a fascinating tour by a lovely English lady. She had so much enthusiasm for the home and knew her stuff incredibly well. When I write about these homes, I feel I can never do them justice. I guess part of that is because photos are seldom allowed so it’s hard to remember all of the incredible things you see in there. Among two of the things I was able to see that particularly interested me were the carvings done by the renowned carver, Grinling Gibbons, and all of the furniture that had boulle work on them. Both things were spectacular, but the wood carvings in particular were absolutely breathtaking. I walked away from the home with some great design insights.

Before leaving at the estate, our professor told us we must try the scones with clotted cream at the Orangery, the little restaurant on the estate. I got a raisin scone (the scones here are much more like biscuits than scones) with clotted cream (something much like butter) and raspberry jam. It was divine, and so filling that I could not finish the whole thing. It was nice to sit and relax in that beautiful café as we looked out into the gardens.

After leaving Burghley House, we headed into Stamford, a quaint town we had passed through on our way to Burghley. This town was where the city shots for Pride and Prejudice were filmed and it is easy to see why. Everything was so delightful there! I guess one of the things that makes it so charming is how the streets just wind gently up and down little hills and churches dot the entire town, here and there. Having worked up quite the appetite, a few friends and I stopped into a little coffee house/café called Gooch’s. It was completely adorable and the prices there were some of the most affordable that I’ve yet seen in England. We all ordered the soup of the day—cauliflower cheese—and were amazed when a gigantic bowl of soup and a large baguette with butter came to each of us. We ate every bit of it and were completely satisfied. What could be more perfect than eating a delicious, homemade soup at a delightful little café on a rainy day in England? Honestly, I don’t know. The day ended shortly thereafter, once again with a train ride back to London and a night at our flat.

London—Day 10: July 28



These grand, wrought iron doors lead the way into the grounds of Blenheim Palace.






Me, in front of Blenheim.







This is the lawn I was talking about in my blog post--best grass EVER!



Me, in a tree in the Secret Garden

Daily Details: July 28

Today was a nice day—more laid back than any of our group days have been so far in England. Basically, we just went to Blenheim Palace, a grand country estate where the Dukes of England have lived for centuries. Blenheim was actually the birth place of Winston Churchill as well. The first thing we did upon arriving was tour the gardens. The gardens are extensive, as the estate sits on 22,000 acres of land. In addition to the manicured gardens, there was the most massive expanse of pure lawn that I have ever seen in my life. It was absolutely spectacular! We couldn’t resist taking off our shoes and walking on the lawn, and it was the best sensation I’ve experienced in quite some time. This is not grass like we have in the states—it’s short and fuzzy and feels like natural carpet under your feet. After resting on the lawn for a while, we headed towards the “Secret Garden”. It had the widest variety of plants all intermingled with each other—everything from a palm and bamboo trees to Japanese maples. Everything was splendidly kept, and I enjoyed hearing the little babbling brooks and seeing the small waterfalls, gazebos, and benches that were tucked away here and there. We then headed over to the rose gardens, another glorious site.

The inside of the house was absolutely divine—it’s one of my favorite estates we’ve been to, and probably second next to Vaux. It was definitely lavish, but understated and tasteful. More so than the other homes we’ve been to. Just like yesterday at Wilton House, pictures of the current family adorned some of the rooms, making it feel more like a home than a museum. One of my favorite things about this home were the clocks that were present in every room—they were some of the most beautiful clocks I have yet seen and believe me, I’ve seen MANY a clock on this trip! My favorite room was the dining room—it had the classic fairytale dining table that stretches across the room for tens of feet, and ceilings that were at least 30’ high. The chairs had a beautiful red upholstery, the ceilings and domed roof were painted with murals, and the floor was a beautiful black and white marble.

Being pretty exhausted, we didn’t actually go and see the campus of Oxford, but the town is what we strolled through on our way back to the train station to head back to London. It was a beautifully quaint town, and although we didn’t see a whole lot of it walking, our double-decker bus ride to and from Blenheim allowed us to see quite a bit of what Oxford had to offer. I love the days that we go to the country because people are SO friendly. A young man sitting in front of us on the bus ride back to the train station heard us discussing some places we might like to see and offered his opinion, giving us great ideas of places to go. Then he continued to chat with us, asking about how we were liking England, music, and all sorts of things.

Well, I guess that about sums up the day—like I said, it was quite laid back. I came home, made myself a sandwich, did my laundry and popped into the Tesco—little mini supermarkets all over the place here. Boy, am I going to miss those when I’m back in the states!

London—Day 9: July 27



A charming window at Wilton House.



Wilton House



Me, on a bridge in the gardens at Wilton House that was modeled after the Rialto Bridge in Venice.




View of the bridge



Inside Salisbury Cathedral--view as we made our descent to the top of the tower.



See that wood scaffolding thing? That's what we climbed, that tiny wood spiral staircase, to get to the top of the tower.



View of Sailsbury from the top of the tower--isn't it a lovely town?



This home is Mrs. Jennings' London Home in Pride and Prejudice.



Stonehenge!

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Daily Details: July 27

Bright and early, we hopped onto the tube to head to the English countryside. Our first stop was Wilton house, where the Earls of Pembroke have lived since the 1400s. The current Earl of Pembroke is a young guy, no more than 30 years old. Our tour guide referred to him as “quite dishy”, and boy, she wasn’t lying! Then she told us, “sorry, ladies, he just announced his engagement!” His fiancée is only 23 years old and as I thought of that, I realized how strange it would be to realize you’re marrying into all of that wealth and that ancient estate. Anyway, enough about the “dishy” Earl. The estate is quite famous, as many movies have been filmed there, including two of my favorites, Pride and Prejudice and Sense and Sensibility. I was amazed at how not crowded it was, and later found out that they had opened it early just for us. Hallelujah—it was wonderful to be in a place that wasn’t swarming with tourists. The home is famous for its single cube and double cube rooms. The single cube means that the room is perfectly square—it is 30x30 feet. In Pride and Prejudice, this is the room that Georgiana Darcy is playing the piano in when Elizabeth Bennett is touring the house and watching her. It was so cool to actually be inside there! Outside, the gardens were impeccably kept and there was an exquisite bridge, modeled after the Rialto Bridge in Venice, which we were able to walk on, even though it is typically closed to the public. At the end of our tour, we headed over to the little café that is situated on the grounds where they had freshly squeezed strawberry lemonade and pastries for us. I briefly stopped in the gift shop and saw a copy of one of my favorite children’s books that I no longer have because it got ruined somehow. I haven’t seen it in years. It’s called, “The Very Hungry Caterpillar” and deliriously happy at having found it, I snatched it up right away. What a delightful way to begin the day!

Next we were off to the Salisbury Cathedral which boasts the tallest spire in England. I remembered studying it in my History of Architecture and Furnishings class a year ago, but for the life of me, I couldn’t remember what it looked like. Upon reaching it, I was blown away by how beautiful it is. For that matter, I was blown away by the whole town of Salisbury is. The church stands tall and slender, ornate, but not ostentatious. After chilling on the lawn for a bit, waiting for our appointment time, it was time to go inside. Salisbury was quite different from other Gothic cathedrals we’ve seen because most of the glass is not stained glass. Although I absolutely ADORE stained glass, it was nice to see some windows that were just clear and beautifully mullioned. Our brief history of the cathedral contained some amazing facts. Among those were that the cathedral took a century to complete, and was completed in the 1300s. I couldn’t believe how OLD it was! It was now time to begin our ascent, where we would be walking across the top of the vaulting and up into the spire itself. Just as was expected, the journey meant a WHOLE lot of spiral stairs, except this experience required you walking up tiny wooden staircases that were so exposed that you could see everything beneath you. It was a bit unnerving, but mostly exhilarating. While we were up there, we were able to see the mechanisms that run the bells and heard the bells loud and clear when the clock chimed three. Well, I could go on forever about how amazing seeing the inside was, but I guess I’ll wrap it up. At the end of our tour, we had the opportunity to go out on the tower of the cathedral and take in the view from about 254’ up. I absolutely LOVED it and got some amazing pictures of this quaint little town.

The last stop of the day was the infamous Stonehenge. We took a cab from the cathedral and I sat up in front with our cab driver. The cab ride to and from Stonehenge was one of my favorite parts of the day because it meant being able to chat with this lovely, older British man. He was so fascinating, because during the course of the trip, he mentioned having been to college and that he and his family go about 2 or 3 times to European cities to take in the culture there. He knew quite a bit about design and architecture and reminisced about his childhood when his father used to take him and his brothers to Stonehenge to play on the stones on Sundays, before they were roped off. He said that back in those days, tourists really hadn’t discovered it yet and so they would have the whole place to themselves. How magical that must have been! Stonehenge itself was absolutely amazing, even despite the fact that it was quite a bit smaller than I had imagine. We had a fascinating audio tour and I learned much about the construction, the possible uses, and the legends surrounding Stonehenge. Equally as impressive as the stones themselves is the countryside surrounding Stonehenge. Fields spread out on all sides around you and you truly feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. It was very tranquil and the sun was beginning to set once we were done touring the site. On the way home, I once one again chatted with my new friend and he told me all about his experience with seeing The Last Supper by DaVinci in Milan. As I hopped out of the cab to get on the train, the cab driver told me how nice it was to meet me and I reciprocated. What a day—the English countryside and a new friend.

London—Day 8: July 26



Lyceum Theatre, where we saw The Lion King Broadway musical.



My dinner at our pub--Cajun chicken burger.